Define Your Sign: Plywood Farm Table Desk

Make a simple, inexpensive, attractive desk with one sheet of plywood and hinges.

Materials

1- 4x8x .75 plywood (1 side smooth and sanded)

6- 3" hinges, non-removable pin

6- 3" hinges, removable pin

2- 2" hinges, removable pin

creme paint with primer

walnut water based stain

satin clear coat

Tools

table saw

jigsaw

drill motor with 3/8 drill bit, phillips driver bit and 5" long phillips driver bit

orbital sander

file sander

tear drop palm sander

tape measure

sharpie marker

yard stick or straight edge

damp rag

4" foam roller

2" foam brush

Cut List

(see cutting diagram below)

1- 24x48x .75 (desk top)

4- 20x29x .75 (legs)

1-2.5x 45.5x .75 (front apron)

Mark a 4" border on all sides of each of the 4 leg pieces. Then mark a 2" space, a 3" slat, a 2" space, 3" slat and a 2" space on all 4 leg pieces. Drill a hole in the corner of each of the 2" spaces as shown to allow the jig saw to cut the corners. Or use table saw to make the long cuts and jig saw for the short ends.

I originally cut out all the spaces with the jigsaw and found it was much to difficult to control the cuts. They were too "wavy" and sanding in a small space was not possible to get a clean looking cut.

I decided to use the table saw and lower the blade below the table. Turn the saw OFF, place the cut out on the table within the cutout area and then turn on the saw ON and raise the blade to make the long cuts. Turn the saw OFF and reset between each cut and to remove wood. Turn the saw ON to make the cut and then OFF again between each cut. Set the fence on the table saw for 4" and make all the outside cuts for each leg piece, flipping each piece and cutting the opposite side. Then set the fence for 6" and make cuts on each side of each piece. Then set the fence for 9" and make cuts on each side of each piece.

This worked well although the cut could not go to each corner due to the radius of the blade. You have to account for the radius of the blade and stop about 1.5 inch before the corner so you aren't cutting into the 4" border.

This is a sample cut to account for the blade radius.

Here is another sample marked for cut out and blade circumference with the table saw.

Make sure table saw if OFF to make adjustments and positioning. Lower the table saw blade below the surface.

Place the board on the table saw surface so it is centered over the blade.

Turn the saw ON and while holding the end of the board, raise the blade.

Push the board forward and then backwards to the stop marks which allows for the blade radius on both ends.

Turn the saw OFF again to remove wood.

Use the jigsaw to cut out the short ends

Use the jigsaw to complete the cut from the table saw to the corner.

This is what happens if I did not measure correctly for the blade radius stop mark. I will have to use filler to fill the notch where the table saw cut too far. Luckily this is my sample, so it doesn't matter.

This is what the table saw cut looks like from the side. This raised part will need to be removed with the file sander.

This will also leave a raised area that will need to be cleaned up and squared up in the corners. I used the file sander to do this and it worked well.

Use the orbital sander and tear drop palm sander to smooth all surfaces and create a slight bevel to all edges.

Paint all sides and edges. Usually 1 coat is enough. It doesn't have to be perfect because it will be a shabby chic/distressed look. You may want to do a sample on a scrap to practice.

Once paint is dry, use sanders or sandpaper to scuff up edges.

Apply stain to edges with sponge brush on one side of one piece at a time.

Use damp rag to wipe edges and then surface, leaving the amount of stain desired. For the desk top, you may want to wipe it down with a wet rag before applying stain so it doesn't dry too quickly since it is a larger piece and area to work with.

Once all pieces are stained, apply a clear coat. Let dry and apply another clear coat.

.Begin assembling legs by placing 2 leg pieces together at 90 degrees. I used the front of a door and floor since there was no base board there. The piece against the door is sitting on the floor and the other piece buts up to it. Lay out 3 of the non-removable pin hinges. Use the sharpie to mark inside each screw hole in case pieces are shifted while attaching with the screws.

Use the drill motor with the driver bit to attached the hinges with screws. Repeat with second set of legs.

Before attaching legs to the top, make sure you have the legs in opposite position.

You can see here that the end edge is lapped over the front edge.

Or you can choose the edges to be showing on the ends instead of the front. Just make sure each side matches and is opposite.

Place the desk top upside down and position the legs on top, checking the edges are all equal margins on each side and attach four of the 3" removable pin hinges.

Use the sharpie and mark where the 2" removable hinges will be placed on the apron and legs. Use the packaging from the hinges as a spacer to sit the bottom of the hinge on so it's centered on the apron.

Since it's a tight space, the drill motor may not be able to get up close enough to attach screws completely. Screw in the screws part way to the leg without the hinge and then back them out so it's easier to attach with the hinge.

Repeat the same process on the apron piece.

Use the 5" long phillips bit to attach the hinge in the corner.

Attach the remaining two 3" inch removable pin hinges along the apron side. Now you are all done!

To remove hinge pins for moving or storage of desk, use a nail or screw and hammer to tap the open end of the pin to get it started and pull all the way out. Repeat for each hinge.